Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Jambughoda, Champaner - weekend away

I'm sitting in the cafe having a couple of coffees (half decent!!) while Mitali has a couple of hours of play group. Kate spotted a notice up for a "Montesorey Play group" which Mitali has been enjoying 10-12:30 each morning. I've been relishing the time in an air-conditioned English bookshop and cafe. Sadly, this winds up for a couple of weeks during Diwali.

Kate, Mitali and I have just had a weekend away with Mum and Dad. Sheik "Johnny" Mukaram - a treasure of an English speaking driver Mum and Dad discovered at their hotel - took us with his mate, Yusef, in a second car. We stayed in a palace-slash-farm at Jambughoda (www.jambughoda.com) - a pleasant mix of history, comfortable rooms, rural function and excellent food (with contraband beer, too!!!). We saw a number of ancient mosques - part of the UNESCO heritage listed Champaner area. The mosques were tucked away, emerging impressively from the lush country-side at the end of over-grown, muddy tracks. I never imagined that I would get such a sense of remoteness and pristine nature in India.

After a stop at the local tyre shop to repair Johny's tyre, we caught a cable car up to the top of Pavogodh, an 800m volcanic hill with a Hindu temple at the top. Hordes of pilgrims endured heat and the 3 hour walk to the top. We had a hot 30 minute climb to the top through a stinky market, complete with costumed cows, bindi-bestowing children and the ubiquitous beggar. Dad and I imagined we were starting our own sect with our hanky-hats.

Mitali, Mum, Dad and I were invited to Johnny's home last night. It was a real privelege to get some real ("strictly non-veg") home-cooking. The modest house was in a "pol" - located in the old city, a tiny lane in which a whole community lives. Sumin, Johnny's wife, produced and elaborate meal. A dish or two was provided by neighbours, which is, Johnny explains, just how it works - if you've got anything extra, it goes into the pool of resources for the community.

Mum and Dad leave on Thursday. We've benefited greatly from their research and explorations of the area, finding Johnny, good places to eat, shop and visit. It really softened the landing having them here, familiar faces - especially for Mitali. True to form, they've been impressively chilled out and adventurous. We will miss taking refuge at their air-conditioned hotel with swimming pool, "the House of MG". We've secured the same room in the House of MG for John and Ali who arrive on the 20th. We're all looking forward to that - I can't wait to seem them hoon around in an auto-rickshaw.

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